Plants used in hair growth-supporting cosmetics
Keywords:
hair growth, plant ingredients, bioactive compounds, hair follicles, cosmetics, dermocosmetic formulationsAbstract
Hair growth is a cyclical process regulated by complex molecular and cellular mechanisms occurring in the hair follicle. Recent years have seen a growing interest in cosmetics containing plant extracts and isolated bioactive compounds, which are believed to potentially stimulate the anagen phase, improve scalp microcirculation, and modulate inflammatory and oxidative processes. This publication presents the results of analyses of the ingredients of 60 selected cosmetic products designed to support hair growth (shampoos, conditioners, masks, and lotions). Cosmetic formulations were analysed to compile a list of plant species used in the production of these cosmetics. The scientific basis for the use of the most common plant ingredients in the context of their claimed effects was then assessed based on a review of available publications. The most common plant ingredient was Urtica dioica extract, while the most frequently used bioactive compound was caffeine. It was found that for most commonly used ingredients, data are primarily available from preclinical studies, while clinical evidence regarding the effectiveness of topical preparations in stimulating hair growth has so far been presented only for Salvia rosmarinus and Serenoa repens extracts and for caffeine. The review indicates a discrepancy between the frequency of use of certain substances in cosmetic products and the level of evidence for their effectiveness in scientific studies. The results of the study emphasize the need for further experimental and clinical research on the mechanisms of action of popular plant active ingredients in the context of promoting hair growth.
Downloads
References
Ablon, G. (2025). The Safety and Efficacy of a Proprietary Bioactive Fatty Acids Extract From Saw Palmetto (Serenoa repens) for Promoting Hair Growth and Reducing Hair Loss in Adults With Self‐Perceived Thinning Hair: 90‐Day Results. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 24(12), e70585. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.70585
Ahn, S., Lee, J.Y., Choi, S. M., Shin, Y., Park, S. (2020). A mixture of tocopherol acetate and L-menthol synergistically promotes hair growth in C57BL/6 mice. Pharmaceutics, 12(12), 1234. https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics12121234
Akhbari, M., Firooz, A., Rahimi, R., Shirzad, M., Esmaealzadeh, N., Shirbeigi, L. (2024). The effect of an oral product containing Amla fruit (Phyllanthus emblica L.) on female androgenetic alopecia: A randomized controlled trial. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 318, 116958. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2023.116958
AlgaeBase (2026). Published on the Internet. https://www.algaebase.org/. Accessed on: 30 Jul 2026
Aljorna-Molero, R., Amaro-Luis, J., García-Molina, L. (2026). Study of the hair growth capacity of products derived from rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), in mice (Mus musculus) C57BL6//BIOU. Revista Ciencia e Ingeniería, 47(1), 57–66.
Almohanna, H.M., Ahmed, A.A., Tsatalis, J.P., Tosti, A. (2019). The role of vitamins and minerals in hair loss: a review. Dermatology and Therapy, 9(1), 51–70. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-018-0278-6
Ananthapadmanabhan, K.P., Moore, D.J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: the impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic therapy, 17, 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
Bae, S., Lim, K.M., Cha, H.J., An, I.S., Lee, J.P., Lee, K.S., An, S. (2014). Arctiin blocks hydrogen peroxide-induced senescence and cell death through microRNA expression changes in human dermal papilla cells. Biological Research, 47, 50. https://doi.org/10.1186/0717-6287-47-50
Bandyopadhyay, A., Selvan, S.A., Patial, P.K., Pal, T. (2026). Plant‐based ingredients in cosmetic science: current applications, limitations, and prospects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 48(2), 258–284. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70034
Barbulova, A., Colucci, G., Apone, F. (2015). New trends in cosmetics: by-products of plant origin and their potential use as cosmetic active ingredients. Cosmetics, 2(2), 82–92. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics2020082
Bautista, D.M., Siemens, J., Glazer, J.M., Tsuruda, P.R., Basbaum, A.I., Stucky, C.L., Jordt, S.-E., Julius, D. (2007). The menthol receptor TRPM8 is the principal detector of environmental cold. Nature, 448(7150), 204–208. https://doi.org/10.1038/nature05910
Begum, A., Sandhya, S., Kumar, A.N., Ali, S.S. (2023). Evaluation of herbal hair lotion loaded with rosemary for possible hair growth in C57BL/6 mice. Advanced Biomedical Research, 12(1), 60. https://doi.org/10.4103/abr.abr_306_21
Bonati, A. (1991). How and why should we standardize phytopharmaceutical drugs for clinical validation? Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 32(1–3), 195–197. https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-8741(91)90117-V
Burnett, C.L., Bergfeld, W.F., Belsito, D.V., Hill, R.A., Klaassen, C.D., Liebler, D.C., Marks, J.G., Shank, R.C., Slaga, T.J., Snyder, P.W., Andersen, F.A., Heldreth, B. (2018). Safety assessment of alkyl betaines as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(1 Suppl), 28S–46S.https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818773354
Chan, Y.S., Cheng, L.N., Wu, J.H., Chan, E., Kwan, Y.W., Lee, S.M.Y., Leung, G.P.H., Yu, P.H.F., Chan, S.W. (2011). A review of the pharmacological effects of Arctium lappa (burdock). Inflammopharmacology, 19, 245–254. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10787-010-0062-4
Choi, J.Y., Boo, M.Y., Boo, Y.C. (2024). Can plant extracts help prevent hair loss or promote hair growth? A review comparing their tTherapeutic efficacies, phytochemical components, and modulatory targets. Molecules, 29(10), 2288. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29102288
Cuevas-Diaz Duran, R., Martinez-Ledesma, E., Garcia-Garcia, M., Bajo Gauzin, D., Sarro-Ramírez, A., Gonzalez-Carrillo, C., Denise Rodríguez-Sardin, D., Fuentes, A., Cardenas-Lopez, A. (2024). The biology and genomics of human hair follicles: a focus on androgenetic alopecia. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 25(5), 2542. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms25052542
D’Agostino, A., Pirozzi, A.V.A., Finamore, R., Grieco, F., Minale, M., Schiraldi, C. (2020). Molecular mechanisms at the basis of pharmaceutical grade Triticum vulgare extract efficacy in prompting keratinocytes healing. Molecules, 25(3), 431. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules25030431
Daniels, G., Akram, S., Westgate, G.E., Tamburic, S. (2019). Can plant-derived phytochemicals provide symptom relief for hair loss? A critical review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(4), 332–345. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12554
Dhami, L. (2021). Psychology of hair loss patients and importance of counseling. Indian Journal of Plastic Surgery, 54(04), 411–415. https://doi.org/ 10.1055/s-0041-1741037
Dhurat, R., Chitallia, J., May, T.W., Jayaraaman, A.M., Madhukara, J., Anandan, S., Vaidya, P., Klenk, A. (2017). An open-label randomized multicenter study assessing the noninferiority of a caffeine-based topical liquid 0.2% versus Minoxidil 5% solution in male androgenetic alopecia. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 30(6), 298–305. https://doi.org/10.1159/000481141
Draelos, Z.D. (2010). Essentials of hair care often neglected: hair cleansing. International Journal of Trichology, 2(1), 24–29. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.66909
Draelos, Z.D. (Ed.). (2021).Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
Du, F., Li, J., Zhang, S., Zeng, X., Nie, J., Li, Z. (2024). Oxidative stress in hair follicle development and hair growth: Signalling pathways, intervening mechanisms and potential of natural antioxidants. Journal of Cellular and Molecular Medicine, 28(12), e18486. https://doi.org/10.1111/jcmm.18486
Eslahi, E., Hashemi, N., Shamaei, S. (2022). Effectiveness of the active ingredients (Capixyl, Procapil, and rosemary extract) of the Trust® tonic for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia in comparison to minoxidil. Our Dermatology Online, 13(4), 346–351. https://doi.org/10.7241/ourd.20224.1
Feily, A., Namazi, M.R. (2009). Aloe vera in dermatology: a brief review. Giornale italiano di dermatologia e venereologia: organo ufficiale, Societa italiana di dermatologia e sifilografia, 144(1), 85–91.
Fischer, T.W., Hipler, U.C., Elsner, P. (2007). Effect of caffeine and testosterone on the proliferation of human hair follicles in vitro. International Journal of Dermatology, 46(1), 27–35. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4632.2007.03119.x
Fischer, T.W., Hipler, U.C., Elsner, P. (2007). Effect of caffeine and testosterone on the proliferation of human hair follicles in vitro. International Journal of Dermatology, 46(1), 27–35. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4632.2007.03119.x
Flament, F., Maudet, A., Barbarat, P., Jabnoun, M., Bayer-Vanmoen, M., Imbert legrain, A., Leclerc-Mercier, S., Taieb, C., Skayem, C., Lebarbanchon, L. (2025). Types and characteristics of hair across the globe: results of a multinational study on 19,461 individuals. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 18(0), 393–404. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S377009
Garg, V., Dhar, V. J., Sharma, A., Dutt, R. (2012). Facts about standardization of herbal medicine: a review. Journal of Chinese Integrative Medicine, 10(10), 1077–1083. https://doi.org/10.3736/jcim20121002
Gavazzoni Dias, M.F.R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: an overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.153450
Gibson, G.R., Hutkins, R.W., Sanders, M.E., Prescott, S.L., Reimer, R.A., Salminen, S.J., Scott, K., Stanton, C., Swanson, K.S., Cani, P.D., Verbeke, K., Reid, G. (2017). The International Scientific Association for Probiotics and Prebiotics (ISAPP) consensus statement on the definition and scope of prebiotics. Nature Reviews Gastroenterology and Hepatology, 14(8), 491–502. https://doi.org/10.1038/nrgastro.2017.75
Girdler, K., Cabatu, A., Olds, H., Potts, G.A., Cabatu, A.P. (2026). Use of castor oil in dermatology: A narrative review. Cureus, 18(2), e103289. https://doi.org/10.7759/cureus.103289
Green, B.G. (1990). Sensory characteristics of camphor. Journal of investigative dermatology, 94(5), 662–666. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12876242
Heckman, M.A., Weil, J., De Mejia, E.G. (2010). Caffeine (1, 3, 7‐trimethylxanthine) in foods: a comprehensive review on consumption, functionality, safety, and regulatory matters. Journal of Food Science, 75(3), R77–R87. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1750-3841.2010.01561.x
Herman, A., Herman, A.P. (2013). Caffeine’s mechanisms of action and its cosmetic use. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 26(1), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1159/000343174
Herman, A., Herman, A.P. (2013). Caffeine’s mechanisms of action and its cosmetic use. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 26(1), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1159/000343174
Indriaty, S., Indrawati, T., Taurhesia, S. (2018). Formulation and test activities of hair tonic with a combination of the aqueous extracts of aloe vera (Aloe vera L.) and licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.). Pharmaciana, 8(1), 33–42. doi: 10.12928/pharmaciana.v8i1.8877
Lalitha, K., Raju, M.G., Tejasree, G., Tejaswini, C.L., Varalakshmi, L., Sirisha, B. (2025). Hair biology and hair loss: a comprehensive review of anatomy, growth cycle, etiologies, and therapeutic interventions. International Journal of Scientific Research and Technology, 2(6), 134–147. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.15581707
Lee, M., Joung, J.S., Park, D.Y. (2015). The effects of Arctium lappa L. root extracts on the scalp and hair. Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology, 13(1), 43–48.
Li, T., Zhang, G., Zhou, X., Guan, J., Zhao, W., Zheng, Y., Lee, J., Wang, P., Zhao, Y. (2024). Cedrol in ginger (Zingiber officinale) as a promising hair growth drug: The effects of oral and external administration on hair regeneration and its mechanism. Bioorganic Chemistry, 151, 107709. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bioorg.2024.107709
Luanpitpong, S., Nimmannit, U., Pongrakhananon, V., Chanvorachote, P. (2011). Emblica (Phyllanthus emblica Linn.) fruit extract promotes proliferation in dermal papilla cells of human hair follicle. Research Journal of Medicinal Plant, 5(1), 95–100. https://doi.org/10.3923/rjmp.2011.95.100
Martel, J.L., Miao, J.H., Badri, T., Fakoya, A.O. (2024). Anatomy, hair follicle. In: StatPearls [Internet]. StatPearls Publishing. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK470321/
Miao, Y., Sun, Y., Wang, W., Du, B., Xiao, S.E., Hu, Y., Hu, Z. (2013). 6-Gingerol inhibits hair shaft growth in cultured human hair follicles and modulates hair growth in mice. PLoS one, 8(2), e57226.
Murata, K., Noguchi, K., Kondo, M., Onishi, M., Watanabe, N., Okamura, K., Matsuda, H. (2013). Promotion of hair growth by Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract. Phytotherapy research, 27(2), 212–217. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.4712
Myagmar, K., Lkhagvasuren, E., Semchin, M. (2018). Hair growth promoting effect of Urtica dioica L. Central Asian Journal of Medical Sciences, 4(3), 187–193. https://doi.org/10.24079/cajms.2018.09.004
Nahata, A., Dixit, V.K. (2012). Ameliorative effects of stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) on testosterone‐induced prostatic hyperplasia in rats. Andrologia, 44, 396–409. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1439-0272.2011.01197.x
Natarelli, N., Gahoonia, N., Sivamani, R.K. (2023). Integrative and mechanistic approach to the hair growth cycle and hair loss. Journal of Clinical Medicine, 12(3), 893. https://doi.org/10.3390/jcm12030893
Oh, J.Y., Park, M.A., Kim, Y.C. (2014). Peppermint oil promotes hair growth without toxic signs. Toxicological Research, 30(4), 297–304. https://doi.org/10.5487/TR.2014.30.4.297
Ong, E.S. (2004). Extraction methods and chemical standardization of botanicals and herbal preparations. Journal of Chromatography B, 812(1-2), 23–33. doi: 10.1016/j.jchromb.2004.07.041
Panahi, Y., Taghizadeh, M., Marzony, E.T., Sahebkar, A. (2015). Rosemary oil vs minoxidil 2% for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia: a randomized comparative trial. Skinmed, 13(1), 15-21.
Patel, M.N., Tuli, N., Patel, N., Merja, A. (2025). Rosmagain™ as a natural therapeutic for hair regrowth and scalp health: a double-blind, randomized, three-armed, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Cureus, 17(6), e85906. doi: 10.7759/cureus.85906
Patel, T., Ishiuji, Y., Yosipovitch, G. (2007). Menthol: a refreshing look at this ancient compound. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 57(5), 873–878. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2007.04.008
Paus, R., Cotsarelis, G. (1999). The biology of hair follicles. New England Journal of Medicine, 341(7), 491–497. https://doi.org/10.1056/NEJM199908123410706
Pekmezci, E., Türkoğlu, M. (2023). Urtica dioica extract downregulates the gene expression of 5α-RII in HACAT cells: possible implications against androgenic skin diseases. Georgian Medical News, 334(1), 6–9.
Phong, C., Lee, V., Yale, K., Sung, C., Mesinkovska, N. (2022). Coconut, castor, and argan oil for hair in skin of color patients: a systematic review. Journal of drugs in dermatology, 21(7), 751–757. https://doi.org/10.36849/jdd.6972
Prager, N., Bickett, K., French, N., Marcovici, G. (2002). A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to determine the effectiveness of botanically derived inhibitors of 5α-reductase in the treatment of androgenetic alopecia. Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine, 8(2), 143–152. https://doi.org/10.1089/107555302317371433
Randall, V.A. (2008). Androgens and hair growth. Dermatologic Therapy, 21(5), 314–328. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1529-8019.2008.00214.x
Rossi, A., Mari, E., Scarnò, M., Garelli, V., Maxia, C., Scali, E., Iorio, A., Carlesimo, M. (2012). Comparitive effectiveness of finasteride vs Serenoa repens in male androgenetic alopecia: A two-year study. International Journal of Immunopathology and Pharmacology, 25(4), 1167–1173. https://doi.org/10.1177/039463201202500435
Schneider, M.R., Schmidt-Ullrich, R., Paus, R. (2009). The hair follicle as a dynamic miniorgan. Current Biology, 19(3), R132–R142. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cub.2008.12.005
Selescu, T., Ciobanu, A.C., Dobre, C., Reid, G., Babes, A. (2013). Camphor activates and sensitizes transient receptor potential melastatin 8 (TRPM8) to cooling and icilin. Chemical senses, 38(7), 563–575. https://doi.org/10.1093/chemse/bjt027
Stenn, K.S., Paus, R. (2001). Controls of hair follicle cycling. Physiological Reviews, 81(1), 449–494. https://doi.org/10.1152/physrev.2001.81.1.449
Szendzielorz, E., Spiewak, R. (2025). Caffeine as an active ingredient in cosmetic preparations against hair loss: a systematic review of available clinical evidence. Healthcare, 13(4), 395. https://doi.org/10.3390/healthcare13040395
Tito, A., Minale, M., Riccio, S., Grieco, F., Colucci, M.G., Apone, F. (2020). A Triticum vulgare extract exhibits regenerating activity during the wound healing process. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 13, 21–30. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S216391
Tripodo, G., Mandracchia, D. (2019). Inulin as a multifaceted (active) substance and its chemical functionalization: From plant extraction to applications in pharmacy, cosmetics and food. European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, 141, 21–36. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ejpb.2019.05.011
Trüeb, R.M. (2009). Oxidative stress in ageing of hair. International Journal of Trichology, 1(1), 6–14. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.51923
Trüeb, R.M. (2018). Molecular mechanisms of androgenetic alopecia. Experimental Gerontology, 102, 6–10. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.exger.2017.11.012
Watts, S.S., Pal, K., Asthana, N., Bhattu, M., Verma, M. (2024). Green synthesis by extraction of caffeine for cosmeceutical application: A review. Journal of Molecular Structure, 1305, 137733. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.molstruc.2024.137733
Wessagowit, V., Tangjaturonrusamee, C., Kootiratrakarn, T., Bunnag, T., Pimonrat, T., Muangsomboon, K., Eimpunth, S., Asawanonda, P. (2015). Treatment of male androgenetic alopecia with topical products containing Serenoa repens extract. Australasian Journal of Dermatology, 57(3), e76–e82. https://doi.org/10.1111/ajd.12352
WFO (2026). World Flora Online. Published on the Internet. http://www.worldfloraonline.org. Accessed on: 27 Jul 2026
